Just like the film that became a cult favourite: a coast-to-coast journey without Route 66 or cars. Travel on foot from the Ionian to the Tyrrhenian Sea through Basilicata, one of Italy's most ancient and mysterious regions. We suggest a walking tour, or a drive if you prefer, following the evocative places that Rocco Papaleo and his companions visited in the 2010 film “Basilicata coast to coast”. There are nine stages, each more fascinating than the last.
Policoro - By Alessandro Antonelli, via Wikimedia Commons
The second stage heads north. We leave Tursi on provincial road 103, winding gently through dense olive groves and bare hills. The route climbs slightly. After 27 km and five and a half hours on foot we reach Craco (2), a small ghost village on a hilltop, hastily evacuated in 1963.
Craco, the ghost town - By Wallora at Italian Wikipedia, via Wikimedia Commons
We follow provincial road 103 to its junction with the road to Montalbano Scalo. The tarmac narrows until the road is scarcely wider than a mule track. We climb and then descend towards the Sauro stream valley, following it west to Aliano (3). This village is known as the place where Carlo Levi was exiled and as the inspiration for his book “Christ Stopped at Eboli”. At 34 km and over seven hours, this is undoubtedly one of the longest stages.
View of Aliano - By Michele Pinassi, via Wikimedia Commons
The fourth stage heads towards Viggiano, but the distance is too great for a single day's walk. It is better to stop at Corleto Perticara (4), after crossing a landscape of calanchi, deep gullies carved into fragile clay hills. Following the Sauro stream for a little over 20 km, we arrive in the province of Potenza.
The road climbs gently as we follow provincial road 54. At around 1,000 metres above sea level, the landscape becomes mountainous. After 26 km we reach Viggiano (5).
Landscape around Viggiano - By Potito M. Petrone, via Wikimedia Commons
Back down from the mountains, we continue southwest across a plateau towards Tramutola (6). At the border with Campania we turn south to Moliterno (7). The road narrows and climbs again. We reach our destination after 27 km and around six hours of walking.
The seventh stage may be one of the longest and most demanding: 38 km in nine hours. It begins downhill through woodland, then continues over a series of climbs and descents to Lauria (8), the birthplace of Rocco Papaleo.
View of Lauria - Public domain
The Tyrrhenian Sea is now only a few kilometres away, although the landscape is still mountainous. After the previous day's effort, today's route is just 12 km. We descend towards the Noce River valley, then climb gently to Trecchina (9), known for its long-keeping bread.
We leave Trecchina along a road that is flat at first, then descends through the woods on the Tirrena provincial road. The sea suddenly appears on the horizon between two hills. After about two hours and 10 km we reach Maratea (10). All that remains is to dive into the Tyrrhenian Sea.
Maratea marina